Kenton emailed this report on his record-breaking 8th summit on his way down from Everest:

"On May 17th 2010 I stood on the summit of Mount Everest for a record 8th time. The initial part of the day went very well, in fact it went like clockwork, while the second half of the day as you may have read in the Observer this weekend was slightly less than prefect. I’ll outline my role in the Rescue that took place in the next report.

Summit day started at 9pm on the evening of May 16th when the team and myself left the South Col Camp for the summit. The weather forecast had shifted somewhat and the initial reports of great weather were replaced with possible strong winds and snow. The team therefore was looking for a quick efficient summit and that’s how it began.

Making good time up towards the Balcony at 8500m I quickly found myself towards the front of a group climbers. Deep snow had slowed down the group allowing me to catch them up. Upon reaching the Balcony there was certain reluctance for anyone to continue towards the summit, this was down to the amount of effort required breaking trail in the snow. It came down, like in did in 2006, for myself and a Sherpa (in this case my friend Dorje Gyelzen whom I summitted with in 09) to break trail through the snow to the top of the world.

In reality being out in front is what I prefer; it means that one doesn’t get caught in any crowding that may be occurring and has more of the essence of mountaineering. It also ultimately came down to the fact that if Dorje and myself didn’t break trail then no one would, leading to a bit of a disappointing summit day for many people.

Leaving the Balcony at around 1.45am Dorje and I made steady if tiresome progress upwards, breaking trail in deep snow can be unforgiving hard work. This was no exception and combined with the fact that we had to pull and dig the fixed line out as well it made for an exhausting time. We finally reached the South Summit (8700m) just as the very first glimmer of light broke in the west over Tibet. Ploughing on through the snow, being careful not to step to far to our right and therefore possibly falling through one of the huge cornices that existed between the South Summit and Hillary step, we made it to the bottom of the famous step.

First climbed on 29th May 1953 by Hillary this last obstacle to the summit bears his name. Back then it would have presented a formable challenge, but now with a rope in place a competent climber should be able to surmount it efficiently and quickly, but it’s a scene of some profound buffoonery. Dorje and I were up the step in a matter of minutes and the summit slopes spread out in front of us.

Summits should be free of crowds, that’s why I climb really, for the experience and people can mar that. This summit has to be one of my best yet, just my friend Dorje and myself with that view that takes your breath away. We even had the Everest shadow over our shoulders. For a mountain that many say is over crowded I think this proves that if it’s done right that magic moment still exists. Its more than just climbing the mountain that counts….I have a phrase that I use sometimes and hold dear….STYLE MATTERS……Dorje and I climbed with style that day and were rewarded with the empty summit."

We'll bring you Kenton's report on the descent as soon as he sends it over - a chilling reminder that reaching the summit is only half-way there.